Category Archives: Designer Radar

The Best Of India Couture Week 2014

 

India Couture Week 2014

L to R: Shraddha Kapoor in Gaurav Gupta, Alia Bhatt in Manish Malhotra and Lisa Haydon in Monisha Jaising

India Couture Week 2014 followed close on the heels of Haute Couture Week held in Paris, and reinforced India’s prowess when it comes to design and craftsmanship. Taking a cur from last year’s Couture Week, there was a continued focus on catering to a younger crowd as the designers experimented with newer, fresher silhouettes.

And while we definitely missed Anamika Khanna, there was still plenty to love this year too. After a thorough scanning of all the looks that set the runways ablaze, we bring you the collections that made us fall in love with Indian couture all over again!

Anju Modi

India Couture Week 2014

In yet another avant-garde tribute to womanhood, Anju Modi used her collection ‘Manikarnika’ to bring regional craft to the forefront, while staying true to her earthy design sensibility.The line centered around dhoti pants teamed with asymmetrical jackets and cropped jackets and half buttoned full length anarkalis. It was a pairing that felt fresh and fashion forward. The jewellery, as is always the case with Modi, was another highlight.

 India Couture Week 2014

Gaurav Gupta

India Couture Week 2014Gaurav Gupta’s collection was as dramatic and sensual as one would expect it to be. Think sheer panels, peek-a-boo cutouts and unforgiving fits. But there were also a few safe full-skirted lehengas with long brocade jackets and pants paired with structured jackets (to cater to the more conventional market, perhaps?). Gupta’s signature sari-gown made several appearances (how could it not?), this time spruced with stunning, embellished capes.

Manish Arora

India Couture Week 2014

Hands down the most recognized Indian designer abroad, you can always count on Manish Arora to bring a dash of irreverence, playfulness and eclecticism to a couture showing. At this years show, Arora’s set was full-on disco themed, and saw models walk down the runway in kalidar midi skirts, bell-bottom shararas, plunging (actually that might just be an understatement) necklines, mirror embellishments and statement baubles. Couture kitsch, anyone?

Manish Malhotra

India Couture Week 2014

Manish Malhotra’s ‘Portraits’ collection was all about unabashed glamour (what else), with a vintage spin. There was ample of mirror work, zardosi, sequins and resham embroidery. Silhouettes ranged from lehengas and saris paired with jacket-style blouses and unexpected sheer necklines to sleeker, more restrained floor length kurtas. And of course, Bollywood show stoppers—Alia Bhatt and Aditya Roy Kapoor.

Monisha Jaising

India Couture Week 2014

An extension of the sentiment of her previous couture showing, Monisha Jaising’s ‘World Bride’ collection continued to target the modern Indian bride who likes her bridal repertoire to be contemporary. Hence there were plenty of draped saris in flirty colours, printed and gleaming gowns and a lehengas galore. The icing on the cake, however, was the black leather lehenga worn with a white shirt and traditional jewellery, modelled by Lisa Haydon. Fierce!

Rohit Bal

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Rohit Bal chose a cocktail preview over a runway show to display his capsule collection, one that was replete with classic, free-flowing anarkalis, saris and lehengas in ivory, spruced with elegant jewellery. The pop of color came by way of the menswear on display.

Sabyasachi

India Couture Week 2014Sabyasachi’s show was drenched in the genius and sheer magnificence that only this Kolkatta-based designer can bring to the table. His collection ‘Ferozabad’ retained the maharani-chic, vintage vibe his creations are generally associated with (in fact, many felt that the entire collection had a sense of déjà vu), albeit with a relatively more modern touch. There was a special focus on menswear in bright chintz too. The set, which resembled a luxury train headed to Ferozabad in Uttar Pradesh, was the real hero though.

Varun Bahl

varun-bahl-india-couture -week-2014

A fresh collection, targeted at a younger clientele, Varun Bahl’s showing had a varied color palette—starting with noir and then moving on to ivory, teal, canary yellow and bridal pink and red. Sure the conventional bridal pieces made an appearance, but what really caught our eye were the asymmetrical kurtas paired with sheer leggings, embroidered gowns, OTT floral motifs and Bahl’s signature sheer blouses.

Until next season!

Check out our Couture Week reports from 2012 and 2011 here. 

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi 

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5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

L to R: Ridhi Mehra, Sougat Paul, Papa Don’t Preach, Frou Frou and Ikai

We aren’t going to lie, we love ourselves some beautiful creations by veterans like Manish Malhotra, Tarun Tahiliani or Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla — but we also believe in keeping our eyes on the newbies who foray into the industry. One of them could very well be the next Sabyasachi, right? As the industry opens its doors to embrace upcoming designers, it’s exciting to see the burst of talent out there. These new entrants aren’t afraid of pushing the envelope, have interesting stories to tell and are quickly creating a signature identity to reckon with. This week, we turn the spotlight on 5 particularly noteworthy ones who have caught our eye.

Frou Frou by Archana Rao

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Archana Rao won the 2012-13 Vogue India Fashion Fund award, so naturally, there’s no ignoring her. Launched in 2011, the label thrives on minimalistic, understated and contemporary designs, reminiscent of an era gone by. Be it her western ensembles or Indian renditions, Rao’s efficient creations are tailor-made for the woman who prefers making a statement with subtly in a sea of OTT sartorial choices.

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Celebrity patrons: Deepika Padukone, Alia Bhatt and Samantha Ruth Prabhu

 

Ikai by Ragini Ahuja

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

 

Launched by former graphic designer Ragini Ahuja in 2012, Ikai is all about mixing the new with the unconventional. The idea is to adorn boxy canvas-like silhouettes with edgy illustrations and animated details, a match made in sartorial heaven for the fearless Indian woman. We are crushing on the ease with which she mixes cheeky one-liners and traditional nuances with fuss-free silhouettes. Turn to her for a fun mehndi outfit!

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Celebrity patrons: Jacqueline Fernandez

 

Papa Don’t Preach

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Did someone say fierce, edgy and bold Indian wear? Papa Don’t Preach, brainchild of Shubhika Davda, is not for the faint hearted. But if you’re someone who dares to bare and isn’t afraid to turn things up a notch, then this label is for you! We’re talking unexpected cut outs, barely there blouses, slit saris, a kaleidoscope of colors and unabashed use of gold and embellishments.

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Celebrity patrons: Kiara Advani

 

Soup by Sougat Paul

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Soup is a label launched by Sougat Paul who earned his design stripes at NIFT Kolkatta. The Mumbai-based brand, which made its Lakme Fashion Week debut in 2010 has carved a niche for itself with its fresh take on conventional Indian wear. Classy with a dash of coy is what they’re all about.

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Celebrity patrons: Kareena Kapoor

Ridhi Mehra 

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Delhi-based designer, Ridhi Mehra, has created quite the splash ever since her debut in 2012. Her creations are a juxtaposition of essentially Indian embroidery and detailing with western cuts.  Her line is composed of anarkalis with midriff cotouts, Indian jumpsuits, jackets paired with dhoti pants and kurtas as well as versatile crop tops.

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Celebrity patrons: Deepika Padukone, Sonam Kapoor, Parineeti Chopra, Kareena Kapoor, Sonakshi Sinha and Huma Qureshi 

Which designer strikes a chord with your style sensibilities? Tell us in the comment box! 

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi

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Indian Wear You Need To Invest In!

 New age Indian silhouettes according to FLW designers

Gone are the days when one’s desi repertoire was limited to a sari, lehenga or salwar. We’ve witnessed nothing short of a revolution on the traditional wear front (one thats brought a multitude of options) and we’ve lapped it all up! No surprises there, right? So we roped in some of the top designers from Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort ’14‘s roster — Sonam and Paras Modi, Monica & Karishma, Sonaakshi Raaj and Arpita Mehta — to tell us the Indian silhouettes the Luxemi girl just can’t do without! We hope you’re paying close attention.

Sonam and Paras Modi

New age Indian silhouettes according to Sva

Left to Right: Sva floor length waist dress, Preeti Desai in Sva jacket style dress

Sonam and Paras Modi behind the label SVA say, “Indian women today are very fashion conscious and want to look their best at every occasion. She wants to carry on traditional rituals but with a difference. The jacket style dress and a floor length low waist dress are a must for her. The statement jacket style dress with subtle embellishments promises a timeless and classic look. There’s no going wrong with it. The low waist floor length dress, on the other hand, enhances one’s curves and is very flattering. It is a modified version of the kalidar kurta and is very trendy and youthful. The sheer back makes for an appealing look, hence its popularity with brides.

Monica and Karishma

New age Indian silhouettes according to Jade

Left to right: Asymmetrical lehenga, sheer net lehenga and three-tiered anarkali all by Jade

Monica and Karishma of Mumbai-based label Jade say, “The modern Indian woman is all about being experimental — traditional with a twist. Reinvention is the key so she should opt for a three-tiered anarkali. Layering lends a regal, timeless vibe to the look while the new-age silhouette turns heads owing its dramatic nature. The second must-have is the asymmetrical lehenga! Paired with a chic corset, the asymmetrical lehenga is all about cutting-edge styling and having a blast. A sheer net lehenga with an embroidered border is princess-like in its appeal. Pair it with tights for casual decadence!”

Sonaakshi Raaj

New age Indian silhouettes according to Sonaakshi Raaj

Left to right: Deepika Padukone in Sonaakshi Raaj sari-gown and Anamika Khanna dhoti sari

Sonaakshi Raaj gives her vote to sari-gowns and dhoti saris. “These silhouettes are the epitome of east meets west and are ideal for a cocktail party or wedding reception. They promise a look that’s elegant, chic and sexy without getting into the hassle of draping.”

Arpita Mehta

New age Indian silhouettes according to Arpita Mehta

Left to right: Soha Ali Khan in Arpita Mehta jacket and Neha Dhupia in Payal Singhal high waist skirt and crop choli

Aprita Mehta is all about the high waist skirt paired with a crop choli due to its flattering nature. “It’s apt for the Indian body — hiding the flaws and accentuating the thinnest part of the waist all the same time. The end result is extremely sexy and glamorous. The second promising trend is the traditional vest/jacket in different lengths paired with either a skirt, sharara or dhoti pants. It’s stylish and can be spruced in multiple ways making each look different.”

Which one would you rather get? Tell us in the comment box below! 

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi

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Luxemi’s Guide to Festive Dressing

Diwali dressing

Image credit: An Indian Summer blog

The festive season can be taxing for the fashionably conscious. With an umpteen number of Diwali soirees and weddings to attend, even the most stylish often find themselves in a fix over what to wear. After all, each outfit needs to be statement making, different from the previous appearance yet right on trend — all at the same time!

But you can rest easy as Luxemi’s got your back! We scour the runways to put together the top trends that will come to your rescue this season. Bookmark this guide and sail through the festive season in your chicest avatar.

Trend: Go for gold

Dressy and oh-so-festive, your Diwali wardrobe will be incomplete without the inclusion of gold. Opt for head-to-toe or gold or break it by mixing another color, this one is a winner either way!

Luxemi's gold indian wear

Trend: Gold

Luxemi picks: Our Black and Gold Benares Print Lehenga by Mallika Mathur, Brocade Salwar with Cutout Applique and Gold Sequined Saree ought to be your go-tos.

Trend: Stylish in Shararas

While anarkalis, lehengas and saris are all good, we believe in taking a breather from them every once in a while. And shararas are the perfect alternative! So stand out in them this season.

Luxemi's shararas

Trend: Shararas

Luxemi picks: Our Raw Silk Choli with Sharara Pants by Nikasha and Racer Back Salwar with Sharara Pants by Kisneel are worthy picks!

Trend: Think Pink

Autum-Winter ’13 runways dictate a return to all things unabashedly feminine. Hence we are digging out all our girly pinks, you’d be wise to do the same too.

luxemi's pink ensembles

Trend: Pink

Luxemi picks: Look pretty in pink with our Powder Pink Sequined Saree, Coral Angrakha Salwar with Velvet and Gota Embellishment or Pink Anarkali with Gota Work by Nikasha.

Trend: Put a ring on it

Accessories can make or break a look. Trust us when we say that statement rings are the easiest way to spruce up the simplest of outfits.

Luxemi's statement rings

Trend: Statement rings

Luxemi picks: We’ve got plenty for you to choose from — the Blue Crystal Lattice Cocktail RingNavajo Cocktail Ring With Ruby and Emerald QuartzGold Plated Pearl Ring by Amrapali and the White Kundan Ring to name a few.

Trend: We’ve got the blues

Blue is undoubtedly the season’s hottest hue — it’s regal, refreshing and head turning. Be is a brunch party or a festive dinner, it does the trick every single time.

Luxemi's blue indian wear

Trend: Blue

Luxemi picks: Look no further than our Printed Saree with Applique Border, Blue and Purple Davry Saree with Crystal Buttas and Navy Georgette Saree with White Accents.

Trend: Pearl-essence

Sworn classics, pearl accessories and jewelry can never lose their charm. They are exactly what you need to sprinkle your traditional wear with a dash of elegance, poise and effortless elan!

Pearl jewelry on Luxemi

Trend: Pearl jewelry

Luxemi picks: From our Faux Pearl Belt with Emerald and Ruby Quartz and Multi-Strand Pearl Hanging Earrings to our Multi-Strand Pearl and Quartz Bracelet and Gold Hoops with Pearls, you will be spoilt for choice.

So that should take care of every festive wardrobe quandary you could possibly have.

Here’s wishing you a happy, chic and safe Diwali!

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi

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Luxemi’s top picks from WIFW Spring/Summer 2014

A few super packed months of fashion frenzy finally came to a close with the 5-day extravaganza that was Wills India Fashion Week Spring/ Summer 2014. Fashion folks are finally breathing easy for a while now… until the next round of runway parties kick-start again, that is!

WIFW SS '14 finale

Finale at WIFW SS ’14

So, while we may still be revelling in the chicest AW ’13 styles, we couldn’t help but drool over the lust worthy SS ’14 ensembles that stole the spotlight at WIFW held in India’s capital city. And here’s what clearly shone brightest on the runways this time — a decided break from bling and all thing OTT. The pack of new designers who took to the forefront proved that understated looks are the new statement makers!

Here’s a round up of the must-haves that you should be making closet space for this summer.

Intricate embroideries at Pankaj & Nidhi

pankaj and nidhi at WIFW SS14

‘Grammar Ornament’ by Pankaj & Nidhi

Pankaj & Nidhi sure know a thing (or many) about luxe pret wear. Their ‘Grammar of Ornament’ collection was a tale of painstaking embroidered finesse and three-dimensional applique techniques.

Pankaj & Nidhi at WIFW SS14

‘Grammar Ornament’ by Pankaj & Nidhi

Oh, and that brilliant canary yellow hue had us dreaming of summer instantly!

Traditional weaves at Rahul Mishra

rahul mishra at WIFW SS14

‘Kiss’ by Rahul mishra

Rahul Mishra has always championed traditional weaves and this time was no different. His contemporary and utterly wearable use of khadi and jamdani gets a decided thumbs up from us!

Modern-day glamour at Annaikka

Kanika Saluja at wifw ss'14

Annaikka by Kanika Saluja

Kanika Saluja’s label Annaikka stands as the voice of the powerful woman of today. Her SS ’14 line continued this legacy. Infused with the neon pops and contemporary cuts, it made a strong and power packed style statement.

Sporty chic at Masaba

masaba's WIFW SS14 collection

Masaba opens WIFW SS ’14 with her line

The classic Fitzgerald girl unleashed her sporty side in Masaba’s latest collection. We loved the interplay of bright doses of pink and blue juxtaposed with a monochrome palate. The sari worn over pants works brilliantly for a laid back daytime Indian affair.

Print party at Dev r Nil 

dev r nil at wifw ss14

Dev r Nil’s breezy silhouettes

Dev r Nil’s collection was a master class in teaming sombre-colored clashing prints together. The artful layering of the flowy silhouettes gets our vote!

Structural drapes at Dolly J

dolly j at WIFW SS14

Dolly J’s structured silhouettes

The Gauri & Nainika vibe aside, we love how Dolly J gave her silhouettes a structured twist. The monotone colors and clean embellishments lent the ensembles a fierce look, one we are definitely digging!

Dolly J at WIFW SS '14

Dolly J at WIFW SS ’14

Sequinned drizzle at Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna

CUE AT WIFW 13

Glamour unleashed at Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna

Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna stuck to what they know best — dollops of unabashed glamour. We are particularly crushing on the pants teamed with asymmetrical tops in pastel hues…we’d wear to a mehndi soiree for a welcome break from the conventional traditional looks.

Boho glam at Anupamaa by Anupama Dayal

anupama dayal at WIFW SS14

Anupamaa by Anupama Dayal

The archetypical Anupama Dayal girl is all set to unleash the gypset within this summer. Vivid color, whimsical prints and nonchalant layering…what’s not to love?

Here’s to a super stylish Spring-Summer ’14! Until next season…

By Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi

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Luxemi’s top picks from Lakmé Fashion Week Winter-Festive ’13

Autumn-Winter has arrived and here’s the thing: This Fall you can be utterly glamorous or unapologetically understated. You can be flirtatiously feminine or take the androgynous route, if you please. As long as you stay true to your personal sensibilities and have a little fun while you’re at it, you’re good to go. And this was a fact that was whole-heartedly showcased on Lakmé Fashion Week Winter-Festive ’13 runways.

The shows aside, what also became conspicuously clear is that Indian street style has really come of age. The venue was thronged by some of the most fashionably dressed people from the industry (and not just necessarily the Bollywood celebrities in attendance) – think stylists, designers, buyers and magazine editors in the coolest designs of the season.

Here’s a look at some hot-of-the-ramp festive looks we are absolutely digging this season!

Nikhil Thampi: Go for gold

nikhil thampi lfw aw13

‘Indian Punk’ by Nikhil Thampi

This cropped jacket and draped skirt by fashion’s latest blue-eyed boy, advocates making some space for a gold rush. Yes, it’s a tad daring – but where’s the fun in safe, right?

Sabyasachi: Fit for a queen

sabyasachi at lfw aw 13

Grande finale by Sayasachi

Clearly, Sabyasachi’s interpretation of the jazz-age maharani is effing cool! This unexpected but delightfully charming pairing of satin and sheer half-saris teamed with a Breton striped blouses aptly epitomized his vision, making it an easy favorite.

Anita Dongre: The new-age bride

anita dongre lfw aw 13

The Jaipur Bride by Anita Dongre

Anita Dongre’s ‘Jaipur bride’ is calm, confident and independent, a far cry from her demure doe-eyed counterpart. She sips on red wine, sports a tattoo and even drives her own jeep! This look (need to get those dhoti pants now!) in a trending color for the season packs in just the right punch of nonchalant edge, making for a powerful statement.

Nupur Kanoi: Effortless cool

Nupur Kanoi at LFW WF 2013 1

‘Eccentricity Tour’ by Nupur Kanoi

We loved the relaxed and laid back vibe of Nupur Kanoi’s collection, the industry’s latest sworn favorite. Interesting layering of smart separates and zipper detailing particularly resonated with us.

Nupur Kanoi at LFW WF 2013

‘Eccentricity Tour’ by Nupur Kanoi

Easy to mix and match, you can amp up many a simple traditional ensemble with these standout pieces. Easy chic, if you please!

Rahul Mishra: Traditional with a twist

Rahul Mishra LFW WF 2013

‘Sunheri’ by Rahul Mishra

Rahul Mishra’s handloom couture collection, ‘Sunheri’ was a master class in marrying traditional textiles with contemporary silhouettes. These pepulm blouses paired with lehengas and saris have made it to our ‘worth breaking the bank for’ list. They personify an utterly fabulous symbiosis of age-old craft with a modern flair.

Payal Khandwala: A balancing act

payal khandwala lfw aw 13

‘A Fine Balance’ by Payal Khandwala

Payal Khandwala‘s bid to provide the unusual has definitely found takers in us. These looks boasting of crisp skirts and jackets with exaggerated collars can be worn head-to-toe for an unconventional twist. But its real triumph lies in the fact that they are bound to shine equally bright as separates too.

Payal Singhal: Architecture meets fashion 

Payal Singhal LFW WF13

(Left to right) Payal Singhal’s ‘Char Bagh’. Ziyaa lehenga, Mashal lehenga saree and Rumana lehenga

Payal Singhal‘s line was inspired by Persian-style garden layouts and juxtaposed ancient architecture and nature with contemporary cuts and modern silhouettes. We love the combination of blush pink with earthy undercurrents, laud the wearability of these ensembles and heart those statement earrings!

Manish Malhotra: Perfectly pretty

Manish Malhotra LFW WF 2013

The set up at Manish Malhotra

What made a fan out of us at Bollywood couturier Manish Malhotra’s show was his set. Aptly titles ‘Reflections’, the ramp was divided into two halves by a threaded veil as the models walked down simultaneously as mirror images of each other. Further dotted with a shower of lights, it was quite the sight to behold!

Until next season…

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi

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Ekru by Ekta & Ruchira Fall/Winter 2013 Collection: Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week 2013

Ekru by Ekta & Ruchira, AW 2013, Wills India Ekru by Ekta + Ruchira, FW 2013, Wills lifestyle india fashion week Ekru by Ekta + ruchira Ekru by Ekta and Ruchira 2 Ekru by Ekta and Ruchira AW 2013, FW 2013 Ekru by Ekta and Ruchira, FW 2013, Wills India Fashion week 2013

Ekru by Ekta and Ruchira, Wills India fashion week 2013All Photos c/o WLIFW 2013

 

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Pankaj & Nidhi FW 2013 Collection: Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week 2013


Pankaj & Nidhi FW 6 2013 Wills India Fashion weekjpg
Pankaj & Nidhi FW 2013 Wills India Fashion Week 2 Pankaj & Nidhi FW 2013 Wills India Fashion Week 3 Pankaj & Nidhi FW 2013 Wills India Fashion Week 4

Pankaj & Nidhi FW 2013 Wills India Fashion Week

All Photos c/o WLIFW

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Vineet Bahl FW 2013 Collection: Wills India Fashion Week 2013

 

All Photos c/o Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week

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Nikasha FW 2013 Collection: Wills India Fashion Week 2013

All Photos c/o Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week

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by | March 19, 2013 · 11:12 am