Category Archives: Runway Shows

In Conversation With Shubhika Davda of Papa Don’t Preach

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Are you bold and adventurous with an insatiable zest for life? Is your wardrobe replete with edgy choices that make passerbys do a double take? If you fit this bill to a T, then we bet a gota-patti sari will never cut it for you in a traditional set-up. Which is where Papa Don’t Preach, a Mumbai-based label launched by Shubhika Davda in 2010, comes in. The Indian high street brand stands out in a clutter of me-too desi wear brands, owing to the rebellious spin they give their pieces—making them edgy yet effortlessly easy-to-wear. We talked to the brand’s Chief Fashion Officer and founder, Shubhika Davda in a candid tete-a-tete.

papa dont preach interview

Luxemi: Tell us more about your label. Who is the quintessential Papa Don’t Preach woman?

Shubhika Davda: After completing my fashion design studies from London College of Fashion, I came back to India in 2010 and launched Papa Don’t Preach by Shubhika (PDP) as a high street brand catering to 16-35 year-old fashion enthusiasts. With strong influences from the London high street culture, I was always clear that PDP would mature into a brand that would design street wear clothing along with shoes, bags and accessories—in order to give patrons a complete look. Due to a strong demand from a fiercely loyal clientele, we forayed into bridal couture and Indian wear in 2012.

The quintessential Papa Don’t Preach woman is a free spirited risk taker. She is someone who displays a fiercely urban sense of style and is constantly experimenting and redefining her fashion boundaries. Think someone who is adventurous and relies on her own style sensibilities to stand out. She is not trend conscious, hence is always on the lookout for something unique. Which is why I do a lot of separates—to give them freedom to mix and match!

Your creations always feature a distinct touch of edge. What would you say are some of your signature styles?

Unabashed use of color as well as adventurous hand embroidery and patchwork detailing is our forte. I always try to use them in newer contexts though. For instance, our recent collection boasts of military-inspired tabs on saris and anarkalis. We retain the Indianness of the garment but make it younger. So no sari gowns coming out of our atelier! We play with silhouettes like skirts with draped dupattas and paneled crop tops—something only we are doing right now. Or then there’s the dhoti skirt-cum-sari along with a gathered pallu featuring latkans.

papa dont preach interview

L to R: Dhoti sari with waist belt, shoulder accessory and gloves. Signature paneled blouse and hip embroidered sari

We focus a lot on accessories like body harnesses, waist belts, metallic busts, embellished shoulder rests and clutches too.

papa dont preach interview

Fall ’14 accessories

What are the coolest/chicest ways to wear a sari according to you?

It’s all about creating something interesting with what you already have. A lot of women these days have several net saris in their wardrobe. Just give it an unexpected spin by pairing it with an interesting panelled or printed petticoat.

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You can also ditch the same old blouse and experiment with high street crop tops (try one with a logo or statement!) or a knotted or tucked-in shirt. But if you still wish to keep the look relatively traditional, then simply add a belt or funky body harness and play around with the drape.

What are the key traditional wear trends this season?

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Long blouses with back detailing

I think the sexiest part about us Indian women is our tiny waist. So make the most of it with traditional wear featuring nipped in waists. Longer blouses, but with strategic skin show are also very big this season. Think sheer blouses with delicate embroidery or a big cut outs on the back. With winter setting in, it’s a great time to play with jackets as well. Buy an essentially Indian jacket featuring mirror work perhaps, and style it in different ways—with a salwar, sari or even jeans.

papa dont preach interview

Style a jacket in many ways

A style advice that never fails?

I am all for comfort, but if you want to be really stylish, then it’s ok to compromise on that front. Sometimes, a little sartorial discomfort can take your entire look a few notches higher. It’s the way to go if you’re one who likes to be the centre of attention at all times!

Which are your favorite pieces from Luxemi’s latest collection?

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The Georgette Mirror Work Sari by Satya Paul as we at PDP are very big on mirror work and The Tonal Chikan Work Sari by Nikasha because it’s young and traditional at the same time.

What do you think of Papa Don’t Preach’s signature, edgy style? Tell us in the comment box!

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi

 

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The Dawn Of The Gen-Next Sari

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The past few seasons have been all about the sari. Designers have realized the importance of tapping the traditional wear market and the younger generation has embraced desi fashion more willingly too. The sari, as a result, has emerged as a clear winner but not without undergoing a quick revamp though. Its traditional drape, it seems, is no longer enough. India’s signature six-yard drape was given a more contemporary relevance and a new-age makeover—one that patrons have been quick to lap up.

We track the most popular styles around town. Which one would you rather wear?

The Quirky Sari

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From rickshaws, Pac man and cameras to color wheels and oversized lipsticks, no print is off limits. In fact, the brighter and quirkier, the better, or so an army designers, ones who have heralded this wave, seem to believe. Think quirky print saris and designers like Masaba Gupta, Surendri by Yogesh Chaudhary, Quirk Box and Nida Mahmood instantly come to mind.

The Cocktail Sari-Gown

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Why turn to international couture when you can find some fabulous hybrid haute couture creations in your very own backyard? Cocktail sari gowns are the new must-have of a wedding wardrobe—ideal for a reception or cocktail party. These gown-like drapes, with an attached bodice, metallic colors, minimal embroidery but maximum impact can be as elegant or sexy as you want them to be. Designers like Gaurav Gupta, Amit Aggarwal, Shantanu and Nikhil, Tarun Tahiliani and Sonaakshi Raaj should be your go-tos for them.

The Draped Sari

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Gowns are not the only drape being incorporated into the sari. Dhoti saris, tulip hems and other offbeat silhouettes are just as popular. In fact, it’s not a stretch to say that every designer makes sure to incorporate atleast one offbeat sari into his or her collection—either by way of a play of textures, experimental styling or edgy shapes. Once you’ve seen a bikini sari, you’ve seen it all (or maybe not). From subtle to outright bold, there is something for everyone here. Our favorite, hands down, is Anamika Khanna and her innovative experiments with this humble drape.

The Offbeat Blouse

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If these out-of-the-box saris are not for you, don’t worry. Just the addition of an interesting blouse will suffice. And there is so much to choose from too. Corsets, cropped jackets, vests, floor length jackets, high street crop tops, capes, sexy backs, high-low hemlines, loose camisoles and sheer patches—it’s time you threw the notion of the conventional blouse out of the window!

Got a favorite gen-next sari style? Which one would you rather wear?

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi

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The Best Desi Looks From Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2014

Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 14

Kareena Kapoor for Manish Malhotra, Lisa Haydon for Ridhi Mehra and Jacqueline Fernandez for Anju Modi

If you’ve been following our Instagram you know fashion week frenzy is in full swing. India Bridal Fashion Week just came to a close and the international shows and Wills India Fashion Week are just around the corner. While prepping for these, we made a quick stopover in Mumbai for Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2014—just to soak in all the festive fashion being sent down the runways. We round up our favorite desi looks—ones we will be swearing by to get us through Diwali and of course, all the weddings that lie ahead!

Anju Modi

Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 14

Staying true to her earthy sensibilities, Anju Modi’s ‘Mahikarnika’ collection was inspired by the paintings and sculptures of Ajanta and Ellora. We loved the layered looks, jeweled tones and of course, Modi’s signature use of statement jewelry.

Krishna Mehta

Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 14

Krishna Mehta’s breezy and upbeat collection brought handlooms from Benaras, Maheshwar, Bhagalpur and Manipur to the fore. The collection was divided into four color stories—indigo, orange, white and shocking hot pink—which coupled with ingenious layering and a fuss free appeal made it an instant favorite.

Manish Malhotra

Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 14

Veteran designer Manish Malhotra can’t seem to catch a break and has been churning out one collection after the other. His LFW finale show, called ‘Gloss’ reunited him with his long time muse and friend, Kareena Kapoor. After playing with Kashmiri embroidery the last few seasons, Malhotra has shifted his focus to mirror work, tie-and-dye and a more mature colour palette.

Payal Singhal

Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 14

We always look forward to Payal Singhal’s easy chic collections and her latest line ‘Excavations didn’t disappoint. —especially the catchy Chintz print that was a permanent feature of the showing. She showcased her signature silhouettes like crop tops combined with pants and skirts as well as asymmetrical hemlines and offbeat blouses. Interesting pre-draped dupattas were another element to watch out for.

Ridhi Mehra

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Now you already know that we have our eyes on Ridhi Mehra. Her maiden LFW collection, ‘Mystical Nuit’ was as wearable as it was trendy. Signature cuts, silhouettes and embroidery were a mainstay but we also saw some new pairings and inclusions like the tunic paired with palazzos, belted saris and dresses.

Sonaakshi Raaj

Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 14

Sonaakshi Raaj has carved a niche for herself as someone who can marry traditional silhouettes with western sensibilities pretty effortlessly. And this collection was no different. We spotted quintessential Sonaakshi Raaj pastel colors and sari gowns. But what really caught our eye was the recurring dhoti drape—used not just as a singular bottom wear but also as a sari. Would you rock it?

Got a LFW favorite? Tell us in the comment box below!

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi

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India Bridal Fashion Week 2014: A Recap

India Bridal Fashion Week 2014

L to R: Shraddha Kapoor for JJ Valaya, Esha Gupta for Jyotsna Tiwari and Kangana Ranaut for Suneet Varma

If there’s one thing we’re willing to OD on, it’s fashion. Especially Indian fashion. Just when we were recovering from all the fabulous fashion that came out of India Couture Week 2014 and prepping for the upcoming Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2014, we were treated to a spot of bridal revelry with India Bridal Fashion Week, held at the uber luxurious DLF Emporio mall in Delhi this year. We round up the looks you absolutely ought to know about. Bridal chic, anyone?

ASHIMA LEENA

India Bridal Fashion Week 2014

Ashima-Leena’s collection ‘Jashn’ was a fitting celebration of the complexities of hand embroidery, rangrez work (dyed clothing typically associated with Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan, Bihar and Gujarat) and the beauty of love. The ramp revelled in a captivating riot of colors, beautifully enhanced with an abundance of gold. The shararas, lenghas paired with long blouses, and tunic style sari blouses were sillouhettes that stood out.

 

FALGUNI AND SHANE PEACOCK

India Bridal Fashion Week 2014

You can trust husband-wife duo Falguni and Shane Peacock to always churn out staples for the utterly modern bride. This time, they turned things up a notch with biker jackets, statement prints, cascading capes, sheer bodysuits and very contemporary styling. Are you daring enough to sport this?

 

GAURI AND NAINIKA

India bridal fashion week 2014

Gauri and Nainika took to the ramp after a brief hiatus, and boy did they bring back old-school glamour! Restricted to a palette of black, white and red, the collection featured sharp cuts, strong silhouettes, clean looks and the duo’s signature use of statement ruffles.

 

JJ VALAYA

India Bridal Fashion Week 2014

There was ample use of traditional bridal red in JJ Valaya’s elaborate collection but the unexpected pops of blue caught our eye. Black and white bridal wear (hitherto considered a taboo) made for a large part of the showing, and of that, we approve! And if Valaya’s line is anything to go by, bid adieu to those same ’ol blouses—statement cholis are in this year.

 

JYOTSNA TIWARI

India Bridal Fashion Week 2014

Jyotsna Tiwari’s bridal collection was a full throttle feminine affair, no surprises there! There were silhouettes not just for the bride but also for other attendees of a big fat Indian wedding. Think draped saris, voluminous cocktail gowns and floor length anarkalis in dainty, ladylike colors and studded embellishments.

 

MEERA AND MUZAFFAR ALI

India Bridal Fashion Week 2014

Husband-wife duo Meera and Muzaffar Ali’s collection stayed true to their sensibility of bringing Kotwara’s (in Uttar Pradesh) exquisite craftsmanship to the fore. Their signature silhouettes like ghararas, wide legged trousers and use of somber colors were seen throughout the collection. We were instantly transported to an era gone by, one where an elegant Begum sahiba was the most stylish lady in the room.

 

RAGHAVENDRA RATHORE

India Bridal Fashion Week 2014

The collection was touted to be a spiritual journey, reincarnating relics and was as crisp and minimalistic as a Rathore showing ought to be. The signature bandhgala emerged as a must-have for the bride and her entourage, worn with pants or voluminous skirts, for an androgynous break from all the feminine bridal wear out there. We particularly loved the punches of fuchsia pink that punctuated the otherwise black, white and red collection.

SUNEET VARMA

India Bridal Fashion Week 2014

Suneet Varma’s ‘Princess of Shekhawati’ collection was the designer’s take on traditional India but with a modern twist. Mirrorwork embellishment, thread embroidered borders, colored aari embroidery and burnt gold and copper thread embellishments were the collection’s mainstay. What really stole the show were the exaggerated and incredibly statement jewelry pieces.

 

TARUN TAHILIANI

India Bridal Fashion Week 2014

Tarun Tahiliani’s ‘Modern Mughals’ collection was a luxurious one, no doubt. It had all the atypical characteristics that the label is associated with—draped silhouettes, cocktail saris, crystal work, digital prints and elaborate embroidery. But we couldn’t shake off the feeling of déjà vu, maybe because the maverick designer has been churning out back-to-back collections these past few months.

Which is your favourite IBFW show? Tell us in the comment box below!

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi

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The Best Of India Couture Week 2014

 

India Couture Week 2014

L to R: Shraddha Kapoor in Gaurav Gupta, Alia Bhatt in Manish Malhotra and Lisa Haydon in Monisha Jaising

India Couture Week 2014 followed close on the heels of Haute Couture Week held in Paris, and reinforced India’s prowess when it comes to design and craftsmanship. Taking a cue from last year’s Couture Week, there was a continued focus on catering to a younger crowd as the designers experimented with newer, fresher silhouettes.

And while we definitely missed Anamika Khanna, there was still plenty to love this year too. After a thorough scanning of all the looks that set the runways ablaze, we bring you the collections that made us fall in love with Indian couture all over again!

Anju Modi

India Couture Week 2014

In yet another avant-garde tribute to womanhood, Anju Modi used her collection ‘Manikarnika’ to bring regional craft to the forefront, while staying true to her earthy design sensibility.The line centered around dhoti pants teamed with asymmetrical jackets and cropped jackets and half buttoned full length anarkalis. It was a pairing that felt fresh and fashion forward. The jewellery, as is always the case with Modi, was another highlight.

 India Couture Week 2014

Gaurav Gupta

India Couture Week 2014Gaurav Gupta’s collection was as dramatic and sensual as one would expect it to be. Think sheer panels, peek-a-boo cutouts and unforgiving fits. But there were also a few safe full-skirted lehengas with long brocade jackets and pants paired with structured jackets (to cater to the more conventional market, perhaps?). Gupta’s signature sari-gown made several appearances (how could it not?), this time spruced with stunning, embellished capes.

Manish Arora

India Couture Week 2014

Hands down the most recognized Indian designer abroad, you can always count on Manish Arora to bring a dash of irreverence, playfulness and eclecticism to a couture showing. At this years show, Arora’s set was full-on disco themed, and saw models walk down the runway in kalidar midi skirts, bell-bottom shararas, plunging (actually that might just be an understatement) necklines, mirror embellishments and statement baubles. Couture kitsch, anyone?

Manish Malhotra

India Couture Week 2014

Manish Malhotra’s ‘Portraits’ collection was all about unabashed glamour (what else), with a vintage spin. There was ample of mirror work, zardosi, sequins and resham embroidery. Silhouettes ranged from lehengas and saris paired with jacket-style blouses and unexpected sheer necklines to sleeker, more restrained floor length kurtas. And of course, Bollywood show stoppers—Alia Bhatt and Aditya Roy Kapoor.

Monisha Jaising

India Couture Week 2014

An extension of the sentiment of her previous couture showing, Monisha Jaising’s ‘World Bride’ collection continued to target the modern Indian bride who likes her bridal repertoire to be contemporary. Hence there were plenty of draped saris in flirty colours, printed and gleaming gowns and a lehengas galore. The icing on the cake, however, was the black leather lehenga worn with a white shirt and traditional jewellery, modelled by Lisa Haydon. Fierce!

Rohit Bal

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Rohit Bal chose a cocktail preview over a runway show to display his capsule collection, one that was replete with classic, free-flowing anarkalis, saris and lehengas in ivory, spruced with elegant jewellery. The pop of color came by way of the menswear on display.

Sabyasachi

India Couture Week 2014Sabyasachi’s show was drenched in the genius and sheer magnificence that only this Kolkatta-based designer can bring to the table. His collection ‘Ferozabad’ retained the maharani-chic, vintage vibe his creations are generally associated with (in fact, many felt that the entire collection had a sense of déjà vu), albeit with a relatively more modern touch. There was a special focus on menswear in bright chintz too. The set, which resembled a luxury train headed to Ferozabad in Uttar Pradesh, was the real hero though.

Varun Bahl

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A fresh collection, targeted at a younger clientele, Varun Bahl’s showing had a varied color palette—starting with noir and then moving on to ivory, teal, canary yellow and bridal pink and red. Sure the conventional bridal pieces made an appearance, but what really caught our eye were the asymmetrical kurtas paired with sheer leggings, embroidered gowns, OTT floral motifs and Bahl’s signature sheer blouses.

Until next season!

Check out our Couture Week reports from 2012 and 2011 here. 

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi 

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5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

L to R: Ridhi Mehra, Sougat Paul, Papa Don’t Preach, Frou Frou and Ikai

We aren’t going to lie, we love ourselves some beautiful creations by veterans like Manish Malhotra, Tarun Tahiliani or Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla — but we also believe in keeping our eyes on the newbies who foray into the industry. One of them could very well be the next Sabyasachi, right? As the industry opens its doors to embrace upcoming designers, it’s exciting to see the burst of talent out there. These new entrants aren’t afraid of pushing the envelope, have interesting stories to tell and are quickly creating a signature identity to reckon with. This week, we turn the spotlight on 5 particularly noteworthy ones who have caught our eye.

Frou Frou by Archana Rao

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Archana Rao won the 2012-13 Vogue India Fashion Fund award, so naturally, there’s no ignoring her. Launched in 2011, the label thrives on minimalistic, understated and contemporary designs, reminiscent of an era gone by. Be it her western ensembles or Indian renditions, Rao’s efficient creations are tailor-made for the woman who prefers making a statement with subtly in a sea of OTT sartorial choices.

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Celebrity patrons: Deepika Padukone, Alia Bhatt and Samantha Ruth Prabhu

 

Ikai by Ragini Ahuja

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

 

Launched by former graphic designer Ragini Ahuja in 2012, Ikai is all about mixing the new with the unconventional. The idea is to adorn boxy canvas-like silhouettes with edgy illustrations and animated details, a match made in sartorial heaven for the fearless Indian woman. We are crushing on the ease with which she mixes cheeky one-liners and traditional nuances with fuss-free silhouettes. Turn to her for a fun mehndi outfit!

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Celebrity patrons: Jacqueline Fernandez

 

Papa Don’t Preach

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Did someone say fierce, edgy and bold Indian wear? Papa Don’t Preach, brainchild of Shubhika Davda, is not for the faint hearted. But if you’re someone who dares to bare and isn’t afraid to turn things up a notch, then this label is for you! We’re talking unexpected cut outs, barely there blouses, slit saris, a kaleidoscope of colors and unabashed use of gold and embellishments.

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Celebrity patrons: Kiara Advani

 

Soup by Sougat Paul

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Soup is a label launched by Sougat Paul who earned his design stripes at NIFT Kolkatta. The Mumbai-based brand, which made its Lakme Fashion Week debut in 2010 has carved a niche for itself with its fresh take on conventional Indian wear. Classy with a dash of coy is what they’re all about.

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Celebrity patrons: Kareena Kapoor

Ridhi Mehra 

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Delhi-based designer, Ridhi Mehra, has created quite the splash ever since her debut in 2012. Her creations are a juxtaposition of essentially Indian embroidery and detailing with western cuts.  Her line is composed of anarkalis with midriff cotouts, Indian jumpsuits, jackets paired with dhoti pants and kurtas as well as versatile crop tops.

5 Indian Designers To Watch Out For

Celebrity patrons: Deepika Padukone, Sonam Kapoor, Parineeti Chopra, Kareena Kapoor, Sonakshi Sinha and Huma Qureshi 

Which designer strikes a chord with your style sensibilities? Tell us in the comment box! 

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi

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5 Ways To Spice Up A Sari

 

Sprucing up a conventional saree

Sari: Neeru Kumar, Jewelry: Luxemi

Elegant, versatile and always event-appropriate, saris are all that and more. As much as we love our six yard desi wear staple, we can’t help but feel that wearing them the same ’ol way can get monotonous at times. That’s why we dug around to bring you five exciting ways to amp up your sari looks. From simple spruces to plain edgy, pick the style that best suits your personality. Rest assured, boring will be wiped out from your sartorial vocabulary once you adopt one of these ingenious styling suggestions.

Cinch it with a belt

Sprucing up a conventional saree

For those who would rather not go overboard with the experimentation, adding a belt is the easiest way to spruce a sari. Take your pick between a traditional kamarbandh and an edgy western-looking belt, depending on the sari in question. What’s more, apart from being wildly chic, this style also creates the illusion of a narrower waist.

Try a different drape

Sprucing up a conventional saree

The regular pallu drape can sometimes be yawn inducing, don’t you agree? So why take that route when there are so many more interesting drapes you can have fun with. Wrap your pallu around your neck instead of throwing it over your shoulder or bring it to the front and pin it on the other shoulder. The sky is the limit when it comes to draping!

Add a jacket or cape

Sprucing up a conventional saree

Sonam Kapoor and Anamika Khanna have collectively made this the most preferred way to add a contemporary twist to a traditional sari. The buzz created by Ms Kapoor’s cape sari worn on the Cannes red carpet this year indeed bears testimony to the fact. So if you’re wearing a heavily embellished sari, throw a sheer cape over it. An embroidered jacket over a simple chiffon sari is also a good way to go.

Skip the old school blouse

Sprucing up a conventional saree

Play around with your blouse to give an old sari an instant update. From a long corset blouse, Bengali style full-sleeved version, cropped jacket blouse, asymmetrical hemline blouse or one with interesting back detailing, there are so many options to choose from.

Wear the pants

Sprucing up a conventional saree

Take this inspired styling idea from runway to reality at your next desi soiree. Who needs a petticoat when you can wear pants instead! Take a cue from some of our favourite gen-next designers and team your sari with churidaars, wide legged trousers or even skinny jeans!  While you’re at it, slip into sneakers for a fitting sporty luxe avatar. Are you game?

How would you spruce your sari? Tell us in the comment box below!

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Luxemi’s Top Picks from Wills India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter ’14

Pankaj & Nidhi at WIFW AW'14

Pankaj & Nidhi at WIFW AW’14

March is a heavy-duty fashion month for the Indian folks. It is jam packed with two of the biggest fashion events in the country. Case in point: the fash frat was just beginning to recover from Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort ’14 in Mumbai, when they had to pack their bags and head to Delhi for Wills India Fashion Week Autumn-Winter ’14.

We followed all the WIFW action and while we loved most of what we saw we can’t help but play favorites! So here goes.

Tarun Tahiliani

Tarun Tahiliani at WIFW AW'14

Tarun Tahiliani had just showed at LFW earlier this month, so we were dripping with anticipation to see what he had in store for round two. His showing, ‘Satlada’was a vibrant one indeed — one where jeweled tones, signature drapes, gold jewellery and Mughal references took centre stage.

Abraham & Thakore

Abraham & Thakore at WIFW AW'14

Mavens of minimalism, Abraham & Thakore, demonstrated the power of simplicity with their fuss free yet impactful collection that was produced by Varanasi weavers. The animal print was a welcome surprise and we are particular digging the belted saris and the addition of trench coats to it.

Nikasha

Nikasha at WIFW AW'14

The immensely festive vibe of Nikasha’s creations has made her a Luxemi favorite. And her AW ’14 collection, ‘Bibi’, gave us another reason to love her. The frosty pink, subtle champagne, pale peach and fiery red ensembles with hand embroidery, diamante and pearl motifs are perfect to sport at the end-of-the-year weddings.

Frou Frou by Archana Rao

Frou Frou by Archana Rao

As Vogue India’s Fashion Fund winner, Archana Rao of Frou Frou had a lot riding on this collection. And disappoint, she did not. The strong singular prints, fresh palette and essentially feminine looks caught our eye.

Rahul Mishra

Rahul Mishra at WIFW AW'14

After winning the International Woolmark Prize at Milan Fashion Week earlier this year, all eyes were on Rahul Mishra at WIFW. His award winning collection, inspired by the eight petal white lotus, used a variety of bullion knots, aari embroidery and thread work on sheer, silks, cotton and woollen jersey in addition to the ubiquitous use of bandhani on marino wool. The standing ovation was well deserved indeed.

Dev R Nil

Dev R Nil at WIFW AW'14

Dev R Nil continued to play on their strength —power prints. They gave us plenty to lust after with their collection that used indigenous printing techniques like batik and handloom weaves. Extra props for the effortless manner in which they paired clashing prints.

Sahil Kochhar

Sahil Kochhar at WIFW AW'14

Sahil Kochhar made a particularly strong debut and has the industry waxing eloquent about his statement silhouettes and intricate handiwork. Here’s one to watch out for!

Pankaj & Nidhi

Pankaj & Nidhi at WIFW AW'14

Pankaj & Nidhi’s collection, ‘House of Cards’ borrowed heavily from Spanish culture wherein they took their signature silhouettes — high low hemlines, structured jackets, hand-made appliqué work and intricate detailing — and gave it an androgynous spin.

Vineet Bahl

Vineet Bahl at WIFW AW'14

Vineet Bahl’s collection of florals, Banarasi handlooms and vibrant colors found an instant fan in us. Who’s up for cropped churidaars and ankle length palazzos this autumn? We sure are!

Kiran Uttam Gosh

kiran-uttam-gosh-wifw-14

Kiran Uttam Gosh’s fierce twist to traditional wear was one of the strongest shows this season. The label’s signature drapes made an appearance on the ramp, but this time in muted and gilded hues. What really did the trick was the inspired layering of easy separates to create utterly interesting looks.

Kallol Datta

Kallol Datta at WIFW AW'14

Image credit: FashionForwardTrends

The King of anti-fit stayed true to his tongue-in-cheek style of designing. Kallol Datta’s selfie sari — splashed with own pictures, was a sure shot talking point this season.

Which shows did you enjoy most this season? Tell us in the comment box below!

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi

 

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Luxemi’s Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014 Lust List

Kareena Kapoor Khan for Rajesh Pratap Singh

Kareena Kapoor Khan for Rajesh Pratap Singh at the Lakme Grand Finale

The international fraternity may take a break from fashion week come March but it’s just the beginning for the Indian fash frat. After all it’s time for a fashion extravaganza more fondly known as  Lakmé Fashion Week! And just like every season, we lived on a steady dose of fashion for the five days of Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014 (read: 12th-16th March), with eyes for nothing else.

So once we kicked off our heels after Sunday’s finale show, we decided to dedicate space to some of our favorite traditional looks from the week that was! Here goes…

There were some strong trends that emerged this season. White and muted colors stole the limelight, providing us a much-needed reprieve for the neon overdose. Pretty pastels  also came out as a SS ’14 go-to. Fashion’s love affair with reinvented traditional silhouettes continued as designers sent fresh reinterpretations down the ramp. The churidaar seems to be a thing of the past — as comfort took centre stage, so did bottoms like palazzo pants, dhotis, skirts and loose trousers among others.

Design maestros at-LFW2014

L to R: Tarun Tahiliani, Neeta Lulla, Gaurav Gupta and Manish Malhotra

Several heavyweight names were part of the roster this season. Tarun Tahiliani presented a collection dominated by black and white and his SS ’14 signature draped saris were a clear top choice for us. Manish Malhotra’s ‘Summer Affair’ drew us in and we gave our vote to his soft hues, toned down floor length kurtas and intricate thread work. Neeta Lulla’s breezy collection was another favorite — especially because it was unlike anything the designer has presented before. This Indo-western line with a younger vibe gets props for wearability. Gaurav Gupta’s collection was high on drama, edgy cuts and signature use of metallic hues.

Anju Modi

Anju Modi

All eyes were on industry veteran designer Anju Modi  after her much talked-about styling of Deepika Padukone in Ram Leela. Her line was high on layering, voluminous flares, fluidity and tailored cuts typically associated with her designs. The pop of print was a welcome addition too.

Shantanu and Nikhil SS14

Shantanu and Nikhil

Shantanu & Nikhil’s Victorian-inspired collection was hauntingly beautiful and elegant. We loved the pairing of peplum blouses with the skirts and lehengas. If only they had refrained from that unnecessary runway selfie…

Sonaakshi Raaj and Ritika Mirchandani SS14

L to R: Sonaakshi Raaj and Ritika Mirchandani

Sari gowns were a ubiquitous pick for most designers and we are particularly digging these looks by Sonaakshi Raaj and Ritika Mirchandani.

Nupur Kanoi SS14

Nupur Kanoi

Nupur Kanoi was another top pick owing to her ingenious garment construction, muted color palette and fresh spin on Indian silhouettes. We call dibs on that desi jumpsuit!

Prama by Pratima Pandey SS14

Prama by Pratima Pandey

Prama by Pratima Pandey was one of the best Textile Day shows in our opinion. Her feminine line of loose pants, crinkled cotton midis and white sheer tunics with tonal and multi-colored embroidery in silk Chanderi and pure cotton had summer written all over it!

Mrinalini Chandra at LFW2014

Mrinalini Chandra

Accessory designer Mrinalini Chandra invited everyone to take a seat, quite literally, with her collection of statement pieces in recycled glass stones and semi-precious gems, all inspired by the humble chair. We, for one, can’t wait to flaunt this one!

Nikhil Thampi's Untamed at LFW 2014

Nikhil Thampi

And then there was Nikhil Thampi. Yes, we know we said we’re picking out our favorite Indian looks, but we just couldn’t resist. Such was the impact of his power-packed collection called ‘Untamed’. A round of sexy for all the ladies, please!

For more runway reports and trend alerts check out our top AW ’14 looks, 2014 Trend Guide and our favorite looks from India Bridal Fashion Week. You can also head to our Facebook page for the best runway looks!

Which shows did you enjoy most this season? Tell us in the comment box below!

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi

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Luxemi Picks the Best AW ’14 Looks

Top AW14 looks

It’s been a busy start to the year for every self-proclaimed stylista out there. As Fall ’14 shows kicked off in New York, followed by London, Milan and finally Paris; fashion lovers across the globe (us included), firmly secured a seat on the front row (so what if it was virtual?) to take it all in. So as a month of fashion frenzy comes to a close, we bring you our favorite looks for Autumn-Winter ’14.

New York Fashion Week

Top looks from New York Fashion Week

L to R: Naeem Khan, Rachel Roy, Kate Spade, Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung went the sporty luxe route whereas Kate Spade’s colorful mod collection with graphic elements found an instant fan in us. Naeem Khan’s collection displayed his enduring love for glamour and we, as always, fell hard for it. Another Luxemi favorite, Rachel Roy’s collection was all about fuss-free feminine cool with a generous smatter of lace. Naturally, we lapped it up!

Top looks from New York Fashion Week

L to R: Delpozo, Alexander Wang, 10 Crosby Derek Lam

One thing became clear at 10 Crosby Derek Lam — pastels and relaxed silhouettes are going to be big this Fall and we aren’t complaining. Alexander Wang grabbed headlines for dragging the fash frat to Brooklyn (Gasp! Quelle horreur), but all was well as his strong collection of statement boots and powerful outerwear won a thumbs up (from us). But the show we were most excited about was Delpozo, the style circuit’s latest boy wonder. His meticulously structured yet comfortably fluid line has us dreaming of winter already.

London Fashion Week

Top looks from London Fashion Week

L to R: House of Holland, Topshop Unique, Mary Katrantzou

Next stop — London. For starters, we loved House of Holland’s show in all its psychedelic glory. And the label’s first ever LBD, (with those shoes too, please!) better be making its way into our wardrobe come Fall! While critics claimed that Topshop Unique’s collection wasn’t a particularly breakthrough one, we give it our vote for the easy separates that are surely going to catapult into AW must-haves. Print queen Mary Katrantzou made a declaration with her show — that there is more to her than those eye-popping digital prints. The sophisticated and evolved collection that followed was nothing short of applaud-worthy.

Top looks from London Fashion Week

L to R: Tom Ford, Burberry

Moving on to the London show we loved most, that of Texan designer Tom Ford. The moment these sequined football jersey dresses hit the runway (Jay-Z will definitely approve), our hearts skipped a bit. Oh, how we love Mr. Ford! Wait a minute, did we say that already? Ah well…

LFW discussions can never be complete without a mention of Burberry, right? And if the Brit label’s brush stroke prints and personalized ponchos are not lust worthy enough, then we don’t know what is!

Milan Fashion Week

Top looks from Milan Fashion Week

L to R: Moschino, Gucci, Fendi, Tod’s, Etro

Gucci took us on a trip to the Swinging Sixties with their upbeat line peppered with leather accents. Wondering what went on our lust list from it? Well, everything! As for Jeremy Scott, he may not speak Italian, but he showed us he definitely speaks Moschino! His show for the label, a crossover between Ronald McDonald and Coco Chanel, was delicious indeed. Now this is a diet we want to get on ASAP. Speaking of ASAP, here’s what else we can’t wait to get our hands on — Fendi’s Little Monsters Bag Boy, a fur incarnation of Karl Lagerfeld himself! Etro stood out for its boho-luxe lendings while Tod’s collection was a master class in diversity using leather.

Paris Fashion Week

Top looks from Paris Fashion Week

L to R: Manish Arora, Lanvin, Dior

Paris gave us several talking points too. India’s very own maximalist Manish Arora’s collection was an unabashed sugar rush while the Lanvin show was gripped by moody, edgy drama. Raf Simons churned out yet another stellar collection for Dior. Think quilted detailing, color splashes, structured tailoring and sporty tech heels.

Top looks from Paris Fashion Week

L to R: Louis Vuitton, Elie Saab, Chanel

All eyes were on Nicolas Ghesquiere as he presented his debut collection for Louis Vuitton. We are digging the retro vibe of this season’s LV girl as well as those miniature trunk handbags. Over at Elie Saab, there was the expected shower of bling, but what captivated our imagination was the Lebanese designer’s take on oxblood. And then there was Chanel… oh Chanel! Are you over the show yet? ‘Cause we are still recovering from that trip to the supermarket. Lagerfeld clearly seems to have his sights set on a younger, sportier  fashionista this season. Tweed overalls, anyone?

So we know what we’ll be lining up to grab as soon as Fall collections hit stores. What about you? For more on the season’s top looks, read our 2014 trend guide and roundup of must-have Indian wear.

Tell us about your favorite shows in the comment box below!

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi

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